Lukimbi safari lodge kruger national park

Kruger National Park

Part One: Lukimbi Safari Lodge

This year's annual pilgrimage to the Kruger National Park got off to a bit of a tricky start when I realised my driver's licence had expired. We had flown from Cape Town to Nelspruit, one of the gateways to the park, and planned to drive between three lodges: Lukimbi, Leopard Hills and Tanda Tula.

The woman behind the car hire counter was quite hard core.

"I'm sorry, Madam, but we cannot give you the car."

Oh no, I panicked. Thankfully my son calmly produced his licence, shot me the sort of look that clearly translated to 'Get your life together Mother', and just like that we were on our way.

A Detour

Our first destination was Lukimbi Safari Lodge. The intention had been to arrive in time for the afternoon game drive, but we were unexpectedly delayed by a stop at The Spar supermarket in Malelane, the closest town to Kruger. I felt duty-bound to visit, having read that it was much more than a supermarket, a real community hub in this rural, farming, wildlife area.

And it is was impressive, huge, buzzing, with TWO MASSIVE AISLES devoted to chicken alone. The food (bakery) is great but also, it's a meeting point, complete with a taxi rank, coffee shop, and soccer and netball courts sponsored by the store for local children and teenagers.

Honestly? It was worth the detour. But was it worth missing a wild dog kill? Which apparently we did. Maybe not.

Welcome to the Bush

We entered Kruger through Malelane Gate, leaving supermarkets and all things commercial behind, heading towards Lukimbi. The speed limit is slow, 30 kph, but we saw beautiful things along the way, including a herd of elephant who had no reason to move out of our way.

I am so sorry we are late, I said to our gracious hosts on arrival, thinking oh dear I am making one excuse after another, my son still rolling his eyes.

It was fine. The lodge welcomed us warmly.

Afternoon tea was waiting: freshly baked treats, a cheese plate, a glass of champagne for me, a beer for my son, and a view that made up for missing the afternoon game drive. Spread out before us were wide open plains with impala, waterbuck, warthog and more elephants at the waterhole, their own version of sundowners.

Sometimes the safari comes to you.

Why Lukimbi Stands Out

Lukimbi is one of only a handful of lodges situated within a private concession inside the Kruger National Park. It is family-friendly, relatively affordable for South Africans, and excellent value for international visitors. The atmosphere is relaxed rather than overly polished, the staff are warm and welcoming, and all meals and two game drives a day are included. You can see the bush everywhere you look; there are no fences. The real magic, however, is the concession itself. Game viewing take place in Lukimbi's private section of the park, which means you won't find half a dozen vehicles jostling for the best view every time a lion appears. Sightings are limited to few vehicles, making the experience peaceful and intimate.

Because the concession is private, guides are also permitted, when appropriate, to leave the road for better wildlife viewing. Lukimbi places a strong emphasis on conservation, and that respect for the environment comes through in every aspect of the experience.

No interference

One of the most memorable sightings came the following morning. We found a lioness hanging out with her cub. Sadly, the cub had been attacked, and our ranger, CJ, wasn't convinced she would survive. There is no intervention. Nature follows its own rules.

Watching the lioness prepare to hunt was exciting and heartbreaking. Perhaps if she could feed her cub, it would survive. It made me think about the rangers and trackers. They spend years getting to know individual animals and their stories, yet they have to stand back and let nature take its course. It can't be easy.

More Than the Big Five

Of course, the wildlife was spectacular. But what stayed with me just as much were the trees, the extraordinary light, the birdsong, and the endless knowledge shared by our ranger and tracker. A safari is not about ticking animals off a list, although my son does love a good list while I never have a pencil. It is about feeling completely immersed in a place that runs to an ancient rhythm. Lukimbi itself is named after a mythical creature that's said to be half lion and half eagle owl. After spending time there, I'm not entirely convinced it's mythical.

There is something quietly spiritual about the place.

On a practical note

Nelspruit, Kruger Mpumalanga, is the closest airport We rented a car because we were travelling independently between three lodges in different parts of the park. Most clients would get a transfer from the airport to the lodge.

Contact me and I will help you book your safari.

thandeka@icon.co.za

079 192 4557