TURN LEFT AT THE OSTRICH FARM
Three months ago, when I knew my adult son was coming to visit, I booked a road trip for us around the Western Cape; Route 62 and the Klein Karoo. When he arrived I said this is where we are going, please work out the directions and some good stops along the way.
I left it to him. A cool feeling, not being in charge, empowering the youth.
We got in the car.
Do you want to plug in the GPS, I suggested?
No, he replied. We do not need a map. We are going to do it without. And be spontaneous.
Oh. Okay. Cool. This was maybe not so much fun but also, I can do spontaneity. Or, I could, twenty years ago. Let’s see.
We were on the highway heading towards Stellenbosch when I noticed a sign that said Vergenoegd Löw, Indian Running Ducks.
Should we check it out, I asked?
Ja, he said and took the next turn off. The decision was made with one question and one grunt. We arrived at Vergenoegd, the lady at the gate said hello you have two minutes to make the ducks, go that way, and so we went that way. Two minute later hundreds of Indian running ducks came around the corner, in formation, the young and energetic up front, one old guy with a limp at the back.
We learned that Indian running ducks have an important job, eating bugs and snails that are harmful for the vines. So they did their job, dining on pestilence, and we did ours, dining on scones, before hitting the road again.
We were headed towards Barrydale, which recently won the award for Best Small Town in South Africa.
Our route took us past the Bontebok National Park.
Do you have any interest in seeing Bontebok, mom?
I did not, having recently been to Kruger, but in the interests of spontaneity and mother / son relationship, I said I would love to see Bontebok. And so we entered the gate, paid R 120 for the two of us, this is a San Parks initiative, picked up a map, phew, and began our meander through the park.
The Bontebok National Park, just outside of Swellendam, is stunning. No traffic, nothing urban, just bush, fynbos, guinea fowl, Bontebok in position and the beautiful Breede River. We stopped at a picnic spot, locked the car although no need, and followed the hiking path. The flowers, and somehow I had only thought of flowers along the west coast, were magnificent. Our footsteps were accompanied by birdsong. And even the silky Rain spider webs that hang in pouches off the trees, just beautiful. There is a fair amount of damage from the February floods, the area was hit hard, and our only moment of conflict was when my 28 year old son went a bit too close to the river bank with a steep incline and I said:-
Be careful, there might be quicksand.
Even I do not know where that came from.
Back on the road and talking about rain spider webs, there can be 300 eggs in one web, we hit a left toward Surbraak, are you sure this is the right way I wanted to ask but did not, and then up and over the Tradouw Pass. Now we were surrounded by mountains, and sheer rock face, a few waterfalls, windy roads, curves where I put my foot on an imaginary brake, sweetie your driving is great, SLOW DOWN signs, and because it was getting later, golden light. It was hard to choose a look out point but we thought, hey, if a leguaan can stop here, so can we.
I crept up and took a selfie while my son pretended not to know me.
And then, on through yellow fields of canola, lines of luminescent blossoms, peach and apricot trees, sheep and shepherds. The drive was so glorious we were almost sad to reach Barrydale.
Where do you think the Karoo Art Hotel is, my son asked?
Find the church, I replied, and it will be nearby. All these little towns have a church that centres everything together. They all have a bottle store too.
Our host was waiting for us. The hotel is a destination in itself. I think I would use the word theatrical. Sweeping staircases, velvet sofas, pianos, eclectic art, a huge vase of fresh flowers, gorgeous floor tiles, each corner something to awaken your senses. After checking in I thought we would go for a gentle walk around town. Actually, after checking in, we lay on the day beds on our private patio, looking at the lavender fields and hills and church spire, and our phones. We ate at the hotel, excellent Karoo lamb with good wine, a perfect end to a perfect day.
The Karoo Art Hotel has a theatre, a studio space for workshops, a vibrant bar, coffee shop and a little Melville and Moon boutique. The outdoor stoep where one can sit and watch the very small world go by, is charming. And that is Barrydale; tiny and charming!
The next day I decided we should hike the Bertus Cooke Trail, a 4 km loop, the starting point within walking distance of the hotel. My son suggested I Iead the way.
Anyone who knows me knows this is not a good idea.
4 kms turned into 8. We missed the markers on the trail. It was the one point we could have done with a GPS, or All Trails, but we were going map AND PHONE FREE. I was quite happy when we popped out, still no clue how, hot, hungry and thirsty, at an antique shop.
I had put my credit card in the hidden pocket of my hiking skirt which of course I forgot had a hidden pocket and so there was some anxiety when it came to paying for our cokes and antiques but hey, if you go without a GPS I will go without a credit card, that is how things roll.
And now we were off to Montagu, just a thirty minute drive but one filled with more canola, more blossoms and more folding mountains. Is there any country as magnificent as South Africa? I think not.
The Montagu Country Hotel is an art-deco themed hotel. And I could rave about the couches, mirrors and porcelain dogs, but there was something more impressive. The Check-In.
Because of the nature of my job, I have checked in to numerous hotels, lodges and guesthouses. Almost every check-in stresses me out, looking for my glasses, having to ask the date, filling out a lot of fruitless information, even lately, these high tech check-ins where you’re given a tablet and have to swipe up, swipe down swipe left, leave me alone for goodness sake I did that when I was trying to date, I just want my room key.
Which is what we got.
Hello, welcome, would you like a drink, here is your key.
BOOM. We were in our room! Playing Bananagram.
While my son was ‘recovering' after losing the game, I popped in at the tourist office right next to the hotel. I did not feel like getting lost again.
They gave me a map with a suggested walk and pointed out the most important things to see and do.
We walked. We looked at old buildings, picked up pastries, browsed for books, shopped vintage, looked at more old buildings and then got picked up in a beautiful 1956 baby blue Cadillac by PJ, the owner of Montagu Country Hotel, to go for a spin around town.
I think my dad drove a green Cadillac, I told PJ, then I remembered it was a Chevrolet and also I could see my son rolling his eyes in the back seat but I had gone too far down the road of fancy American Dream Cars of which I know NOTHING, except - this one was cool. We had a fabulous drive, the engine literally purrs in a tiger kind of way, it’s a marvellous way to see the town and to drive along Route 62, also, no worry about which way to go, PJ had it all under control.
And now we were heading to Oudtshoorn. The scenery changed quickly, turning into more arid scrubland, wide open spaces, beautiful skies, real Karoo. I suggested a stop in Calitzdorp to be told I had a romantic idea of small towns and good coffee, maybe, maybe, maybe not, but we both needed the loo. Then we kind of muttered okay let’s stop at Ronnies Shop not wanting to say Ronnies Sex Shop but it is Ronnies Shop where the guys added the Sex bit to get customers to stop but anyhoo Ronnies is a good place and so we pulled in at the same time as a bunch of bikers, there we were, mom and son, surrounded by men in leather, other women’s bras and underwear, all OKAY.
We left quickly though.
Oudtshoorn took me by surprise. We were staying on the outskirts of the town, a little place called De Zeekoe. We turned off the highway, a quiet road with ostrich farms on either side. And when we could we pulled over and took a walk on a little dirt road, to be joined by, albeit with a fence between us, Ostrich number 3426. It was tagged.
It is so friendly, I remarked to my son, the ostrich keeping up with us as we walked.
Ostrich are extremely curious animals, he told me. And then he gave me all these facts about ostrich.They love interacting with people or things, they are inquisitive, friendly unless you get in their way, their eyes are bigger than their brains, they are excellent parents, and sadly, they make a good omelette.
We had a gorgeous little cabin at De Zeekoe. It is a real country or farm hotel where you place your dinner order during the day, I LOVED THAT. We wandered, did some birdwatching, there are incredible birds on the farm, found a porcupine quill or two, joined the Five Shy Meerkat experience, so cute and worth doing, explored the town a bit, considered buying an ostrich handbag but then thought, this could be Ostrich number 3425 and thought again.
Our drive back to Cape Town was long, five hours, and if you can, take an overnight. Robertson would be a good place. Or even Swellendam if you go back the same way. All the places we stayed at belong to the Cape Country Route group of hotels and each was charming and delightful. The first thing you will see on their website is a fabulous map of the Western Cape, which I recommend studying. It will help you plot your route. www.capecountryroutes.com
Book with me, thandeka@icon.co.za
Comments